Beyond Naan: Xinjiang’s Other Tandoor Breads (Girdeh, Tokach & the Tandir Tour)
Everyone photographs the round, speckled naan slapped against the tandoor wall. I did too — until a baker in Kuqa pulled out a domed, sesame-crusted loaf that was nothing like naan and called it girdeh. Xinjiang’s tandir (the local spelling of tandoor) is a bread universe, and naan is only the headline act. This is the tour of the supporting cast.
The Tandir Itself
The tandir is a clay cylinder sunk into the ground or built free-standing, fired with apricot wood until the walls glow. Dough is pressed flat, stamped with a patterned naanwan (stamp), and slapped onto the inner wall where it bakes in two or three minutes. The same oven makes every bread below — the difference is the dough and the shape.
Girdeh — The Crown Loaf
Girdeh (from Persian “circle”) is a thicker, domed bread, often with a hole or knob in the center and a heavy crust of sesame or zira (black cumin). It is chewier than naan and keeps for days — historically the travel bread of the Silk Road. In Kuqa and Aksu it is the pride of the oven. A good girdeh is 3–6 RMB.
How to Spot a Good One
The bottom should be blistered, not burnt; the top should crack slightly as it cools. Tap it — a hollow sound means it’s properly baked and will stay crisp.
Tokach — The Soft Pillow
Tokach (also tokqach) is a softer, layered flatbread, sometimes folded with oil and scallion, closer to a Central Asian patyr. It is the everyday bread of the north, torn to scoop shorpa broth or wrapped around kebab. Less photogenic than naan, more useful at the table.
Other Shapes Worth Knowing
Qatlama
A fried or baked layered bread with oil and sometimes sugar or meat — the bridge between bread and pastry. You’ll see it at bazaars next to the sweets.
Polo Bread / Small Rounds
Tiny round breads baked specifically to serve under or beside polo (pilaf). They soak up the carrot oil beautifully.
| Bread | Texture | Best use | Region famous for it |
|---|---|---|---|
| Naan | Flat, crisp edge | All-purpose, kebabs | Everywhere |
| Girdeh | Thick, chewy crust | Travel, soups | Kuqa, Aksu |
| Tokach | Soft, layered | Sopping broth | North (Yili, Urumqi) |
| Qatlama | Flaky, oily | Snack, sweet | South bazaars |
| Small rounds | Soft, small | Under polo | Everywhere |
Where to Take the Tandir Tour
The naan varieties guide lists city bakeries, but for the full range go to Kuqa (girdeh central) and Hotan (where every other shop is a tandir). In Urumqi, the International Grand Bazaar bakery row shows all shapes at once. Arrive before 10 am for the freshest pull.
Buying and Keeping
Breads are cheapest at the neighborhood nanfang (bread house), 2–5 RMB each. They stale in a day in Xinjiang’s dry air, so buy what you’ll eat. Stale girdeh revives beautifully — break it, sprinkle water, and toast over a flame, or crumble it into soup. I’ve flown home with girdeh wrapped in cloth; it lasted a week.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is girdeh the same as naan?
No. Naan is the flat round staple; girdeh is thicker, domed, and crustier, built for keeping. Both come from the tandir but are distinct breads.
What is the patterned stamp for?
The naanwan stamp presses decorative wells that help the bread cook evenly and let steam escape, and it’s a baker’s signature. Plain breads without the stamp are usually tokach or qatlama.
Can I visit a working tandir?
Yes — neighborhood nanfang bakeries are open and usually happy for you to watch through the window. In Kuqa some offer demonstrations. Just ask before photographing the baker.
Why does Xinjiang bread taste different from Indian naan?
Xinjiang naan uses a lean wheat dough, sometimes milk or egg, baked dry on the oven wall. Indian naan is typically leavened with yogurt and cooked with ghee or butter. Different grain, different fat, different crumb.
