Kumis, Ayran and Xinjiang’s Fermented Drinks: A Field Guide to the Region’s Sours and Cultures
Before you fall for salty milk tea, try the drink that divides first-time visitors: kumis (fermented mare’s milk), a lightly alcoholic, fizzy, sour sipper that nomads have relied on for centuries. Xinjiang’s drink culture is far broader than tea, and most of it is honest, homemade, and unexpectedly good.
Overview & Key Facts
Xinjiang’s traditional drinks split into two worlds: fermented dairy (kumis, ayran, suzma) and tea-based (milk tea, brick tea). Kumis is made by fermenting fresh mare’s milk with a starter culture; the result is 0.5–2% alcohol, effervescent, and tangy. Ayran is a salted yogurt drink (non-alcoholic). Both are staples of Kazakh and Kyrgyz herding communities in the north.
| Drink | Base | Alcohol | Taste |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kumis | Mare’s milk | Low (0.5–2%) | Sour, fizzy |
| Ayran | Yogurt + water + salt | None | Salty, cooling |
| Suzma | Strained yogurt | None | Thick, tart |
| Milk tea | Tea + milk + salt | None | Creamy, savory |
Getting There (Where to Try)
Your best chance at real kumis is in pastoral northern Xinjiang — around Ili, Naraty, and the grassland guesthouses of the Tianshan — in summer when herds are milking. City versions exist in Urumqi and Yining night markets but are often milder. Ili Valley trips in June–August line up perfectly with fresh kumis season.
Tickets & Costs
Kumis is cheap: a bowl at a herder’s yurt or a market stall runs about 10–20 RMB. Bottled versions in supermarkets are 8–15 RMB. You are paying for freshness, not branding.
Best Time to Visit
Kumis is a warm-season drink — peak freshness is June to August, when mares are foaling and milk flows. Off-season, you’ll mostly find pasteurized bottles, which lose the fizz.
How to Drink It (Without Regretting It)
| Step | Tip |
|---|---|
| 1 | Start with a small bowl; the sour-fizz is an acquired taste |
| 2 | Drink it cool, not iced |
| 3 | Pair with naan or samsa to soften the tang |
| 4 | Don’t overdo it — low alcohol still adds up |
Where to Stay
For the authentic version, stay at a grassland yurt homestay (summer only). In towns, any standard hotel puts you within walking distance of a bazaar that sells it.
Food Pairings
Kumis loves grilled meat and flatbread; ayran is the all-day refresher with kebabs. Both cut the richness of lamb beautifully.
Practical Tips
- Fresh kumis is unpasteurized — travelers with sensitive stomachs should prefer bottled.
- It does not travel; drink it where you buy it.
- Ask “qymyz” (Kazakh) or “kumis” (Russian loan) if pointing fails.
FAQ
Does kumis get you drunk? Barely — it’s usually under 2% ABV, more of a probiotic fizz than a beer.
Is it safe? From reputable stalls and yurts, yes; the fermentation itself inhibits many pathogens. Sensitive stomachs should choose bottled.
What if I hate it? Try ayran or milk tea instead — same culture, gentler flavor.
Can I buy it outside Xinjiang? Rarely fresh; some Central Asian shops in big cities stock bottled versions.
