Koktokay (Keketuohai): Xinjiang’s Granite Peaks and the ‘Crying’ River
Koktokay (可可托海, also spelled Keketuohai) is the Altai’s other geopark — less famous than Kanas but, to geologists and quiet-seekers, just as striking. A UNESCO Global Geopark, it pairs a deep granite canyon with the headwaters of the Irtysh River (one of the few Chinese rivers that flows west, to the Arctic Ocean). The name means ‘blue-green river bend’ in Kazakh, and the place lives up to it: raw rock, cold water, and almost no crowds.
It sits in the far north, nearer the Kazakhstan and Mongolia borders than most visitors expect — a detour worth building into an Altai loop.
The Granite and the Canyon
The park’s signature is its giant granite formations — weathered peaks and pillars that locals have named after things they resemble (a ‘wolf’, a ‘sacred bell’). The Irtysh has cut a narrow canyon through them, with walkways along the rim and down to the water. It’s more ‘geology as sculpture’ than ‘lake as mirror’ — a different, harder beauty than Kanas.
The River That Runs Away
The Irtysh here is the start of a 4,000 km journey to the Arctic. Standing at its source, you’re at the head of a drainage that ends in the Kara Sea — a fact that makes Koktokay feel geographically special. In autumn the riverside birch turn gold; in summer the water is cold and clear and the canyon is lush.
How to Get There
Koktokay is reached via Altay city or Burqin, then a scenic drive south into the mountains. It pairs naturally with Kanas and Hemu as a three-part Altai trip, though the roads are long and the season is short (roughly June–October for full access). Lodging is basic in the nearby town; the park itself is day-visit.
Why It’s Overlooked
Kanas hogs the Altai’s spotlight, so Koktokay stays calm — fewer shuttles, fewer gates, more walking. If you’ve done Kanas and want the region’s quieter granite-and-river face, this is it. Bring a layer; even in summer the canyon holds a chill, and the light on the rock at evening is the photo.
